Joe Louis drinks a hida dark ale
Just as the hustle and bustle of Tokyo creates an irresistible energy, so too does the calmness of Takayama pull you in. From a tourist perspective, the village is probably best known for its seasonal Spring and Autumn festivals: joyful celebrations with parade floats that take over the town while local breweries present the latest sake productions.
I visited during the quieter winter season and still found plenty to enjoy. In addition to visiting Sake breweries and nearby heritage landscapes, I found just walking around town to be a wonderful experience. Much of the old architecture of previous Japanese eras is still preserved and you get the feeling that you aren’t in just another city in another country. You are in a distinct Japanese town.
If you are a morning person, wake up early and visit the morning market at the center of town. Although markets tend to be similar across cities, they are the pulse of smaller towns where it is always nice to see people interacting directly with each other in a natural setting. I enjoyed strolling along, watching people as I made my way across the slanted streets and over stretched bridges.
When I passed by a storefront sign for The Bagpiper I decided to escape the chilly air and stop in for an afternoon refreshment. The small bar with its kitschy decor had such a warm, welcoming texture that I felt right at home. I ordered the locally brewed Hida Dark Ale and was delighted with the crisp beer. I can drink a Kirin or a Sapporo back home; there aren’t many opportunities to have a Hilda brew. In no rush, I relaxed and enjoyed the light music and olden setting.
Small establishments like The Bagpiper give me great joy. An even friendlier shop was Heinraku, a small restaurant with little in terms of outdoor signage, but much to do with warm hospitality. Finding it may take a little while – it may be easier to ask around than to look on your own. The location itself is small, creating a cozy atmosphere.
I arrived for a late afternoon dinner aware that many places in Takayama close at an early hour, as the concept of nightlife there exists only as time spent in bed. I removed several layers of winter clothing and took a seat at the counter. Several couples sat behind me on tatami mats eating at small tables, but the counter provided the entertaining ability to watch the chef chop fresh vegetables and cook up delicious dishes.
Heinraku is run by an amicable couple in the classic mom-and-pop fashion. The husband is the quiet chef (possibly because he doesn’t speak much English) and his wife is the gregarious hostess and waitress. She is constantly engaged in lengthy conversations with her guests in guests and is happy to share her life story as well. It is easy to feel like part of the family.
The menu has a nice variety of local dishes and familiar Japanese cuisine, but that only tells part of the story. In addition to being welcoming hosts, the proprietors of Heinraku or also accommodating cooks. I was looking for vegetarian options and they were happy to provide appropriate substitutes. If you are allergic to an ingredient or vegan, they will find a way to suit your needs in tasty manner. The Japanese seem to know a lot about customer service. I had such a great experience, that I came back several more times while I was in Takayama.
See what other blogs are saying about Takayama attractions:
” In Takayama, the winter weather is generally clear and blue-skied, so the town ends up looking like the inside of a lovely Japanese snow globe.”
–Ways of Wanderers
“Takayama is famous for the annual spring and autumn festival called Takayama Matsuri, where dozen of festival floats (yatai) occupy the streets. Consider as one of Japan’s most beautiful festival, I can only imagine how amazing it must be to be surrounded by towering floats.”
–Life to Reset
